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Ravioli di Pere

Learning to Cook 3 Recipes of Friuli Venezia Giulia

The region (and now province) of Friuli Venezia Giulia offers a feast of surprises. Many do not know that San Daniele ham and the world-renowned Illy coffee empire originated here. The varied landscape and strong central European influences are evident in the regional cuisine, based heavily on polenta, soups and salumi. The diversity of its culture makes the cuisine quite distinct from the rest of Italy. Polenta in the area is often mixed with milk, vegetables, beans and salumi to become a meal, rather than a side dish. Soups often contain dumplings, rather than pasta, yet the tradition of stuffed pastas of northern Italian regions is evident in its ravioli. Most of the regional desserts are interpretations of Austrian classics. Gubana is perhaps the most famous. Strudel is also a popular dessert, especially in Trieste, where it is called Strucolo and is stuffed with apples or other seasonal fruits.

Friuli Venezia Giulia wines are primarily whites and are remarkable for the number of grape varieties that are used in their blends, including Refosco, Terrano, Malvasia, Tocai and Rebula. The area also produces some of Italy’s most popular grappa, distilled from the skins, seeds and stems of many types of grapes left over after wine making. Today many Italians, especially in the northeast, finish off meals with a glass of carefully selected smooth, single grape distilled grappa. To be considered a Grappa D.O.C, it must be produced in the Veneto, Friuli Venezia Giulia or Trentino Alto Adige.

Trieste Style Spider Crab

The spider crab, granseola in Italian, is typically found along the Italian coasts. The way it is prepared in Trieste is perfect if you are looking for a simple, but flavorful dish.

Ingredients

  • ½ onion, chopped
  • lemon juice
  • 3 ½ oz breadcrumbs
  • 1 oz butter
  • 1 ½ tablespoons olive oil
  • parsley to taste
  • 1 spider crab, or any fresh lump crabmeat

Preparation

Cook the spider crab in a large pot of boiling water for 10 minutes. Drain and let cool. Remove the claws and open them with a nutcracker, removing the meat and placing it in a bowl. Using a knife and a pair of scissors, open the shell of the crab, starting with the underside. Carefully remove all of the meat, keeping the top of the shell intact (you will use it to serve the crab). Tear all of the crab meat into smaller pieces. Finely chop the onion and sauté in butter with the breadcrumbs and parsley over a medium flame for 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and add the juice and the grated peel of the lemon. Also add the oil and crabmeat. Stir together, place back into the top of the crab’s shell. Serve with lemon over lettuce.

Prawn and Porcini Risotto

This classic recipe combines the rich flavors of prawns and mushrooms.

Ingredients

  • 8 whole prawns, medium-sized
  • 8 oz Carnaroli rice
  • 6 oz Porcini mushrooms
  • 1 garlic clove, chopped
  • 8 cups fish broth (fumet)
  • 1 cup chopped arugula
  • 3 oz butter
  • ½ cup white wine
  • 1/4 cup olive oil
  • salt and pepper to taste

Preparation

Clean the prawns and separate the heads from the tails. Use the heads to make a fumet (a reduced broth), using about 6 cups of water and 2 teaspoons of salt. Bring to a boil and simmer over low heat for at least 20 minutes, then keep warm.

Clean the mushrooms by cutting off the tips of the stems and wash. Then cut into thin slices. Place a pot over medium heat. Add the olive oil and once it is hot, add crushed garlic, but do not let it brown. Once slightly golden, add the prawns and mushrooms.

Cook for about 2 minutes. Add the rice and toast it for a 2-3 minutes, or until it becomes transparent. Then add the wine and once almost all of it has evaporated, add a 2 cups of boiling, filtered fumet. Lower the heat and continue to add fumet, a ladleful at a time, as it is absorbed by the rice. Cook for 18- 20 minutes, adjusting, adding salt and pepper to taste after 15 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat and stir in the butter. Before serving, check to see if the risotto is too dry. If so, add more fumet. Stir and serve with the arugula on top.

Ravioli di Pere

This ravioli is filled with a pear sauce and uses the famous Montasio cheese of Friuli.

Ingredients

  • 1 lb Bartlett pears, peeled and cored
  • 8 oz Montasio cheese
  • 1/4 cup mascarpone cheese
  • 3 tbsp chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  • salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
  • 1 lb fresh pasta sheets
  • 3 tbsp unsalted butter
  • 3 tbsp chopped toasted walnuts

Preparation

Using the fine side of a box grater, grate the pears and Montasio cheese into a bowl. Add the mascarpone, salt and pepper, 2 tablespoons of the parsley and stir to combine. Using a pasta machine, roll the pasta into a thin sheet and cut into 12” long pieces. Working in batches, fill the ravioli with the mixture and then cut the ravioli into 2-inch squares.

Transfer the ravioli to a lightly floured baking sheet and refrigerate for at least 1 hour before cooking. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook the ravioli until they float and are al dente, 2 to 3 minutes. Using a skimmer, transfer the ravioli to paper towels to drain. Reserve 1/4 cup of the cooking water.

In a large, deep sauté pan, melt the butter over medium-high heat and season with salt and pepper. When the butter is bubbling but not brown, add the ravioli and gently stir to coat. Add the reserved cooking water to create a sauce. Stir in the remaining 1 tablespoon of parsley. Transfer the ravioli to a warmed serving bowl, sprinkle with the walnuts and serve immediately.